Description

Textiles play a decisive role in history: attire not only indicates status, gender, ethnicity, and religion but illustrates how such boundaries are continuously being negotiated, shifted, and recreated. Fashionable Traditions captures the complex reality of Asian handmade textile production and consumption. From traditionalist discourse and cultural authenticity to fashion and market trends, the contributors to this collection demonstrate the multilayered influence of often contradictory forces. In-depth, ethnographic case studies reveal the entangled relationships between local artisans, external interventions, and consumers, while acknowledging the broader frameworks in which such relationships are situated. Together these stories offer a vivid account of the socio-economic, political, and cultural dynamics in various parts of Asia and emphasize that fashion is neither a Western prerogative nor do its roots reside solely in the West.

Table of Contents

List of Figures and Tables

Preface

Introduction: Asian Handmade Textiles as Fashionable Traditions

Ayami Nakatani



Part 1: Fashion Dynamics in Tradition

Chapter 1

Ikat Patterns in Flores, Indonesia, and the Global Fashion Trajectory

Willemijn de Jong

Chapter 2

“New Style” of Ethnic Clothing: Dress between Tradition and Fashion among the Hmong in Yunnan, China

Chie Miyawaki

Chapter 3

The Pashmina Shawl: Continuity and Transformation from Ladakh to Kashmir

Monisha Ahmed



Part 2: Politics of Heritage and Beyond

Chapter 4

Listing Cultures: Politics of Boundaries and Heritagization of Handwoven Textiles in Indonesia

Ayami Nakatani

Chapter 5

Between Culture and Technology: “Theme” Saris and the Graphic Representation of Heritage in Tamil Nadu, India

Aarti Kawlra

Chapter 6

“Heritagization” as a Double-edged Sword: The Dilemma of Nishijin Silk Weaving in Kyoto, Japan

Okpyo Moon

Chapter 7

Inheriting Weaving Knowledge in Depopulated Communities: Conservation of Wisteria Fiber Textiles in Kyoto, Japan

Miwa Kanetani



Part 3: Contested Valorization and the Role of Mediators

Chapter 8

Branding Tsumugi Kimono in Japan: Kimono Magazines as Mediators between Consumers and the “Mingei” Movement

Seiko Sugimoto

Chapter 9

“Crafts” to “Art”: A Trajectory of Aboriginal Women’s Weavings in Arnhem Land, Australia

Sachiko Kubota

Chapter 10

Translocal Ikat in Contemporary Bali, Indonesia: Imagining Heritage, Imagining Modernities in Ikat Production and Marketing

Susan Rodgers



Part 4: Ambivalent Encounters with Global Consumers

Chapter 11

Embroidering Development: The Mutwa and Rann Utsav in Kutch, India

Michele A. Hardy

Chapter 12

Strategic Choices of Techniques: Dyed and Printed Textiles for Goddess Rituals in Gujarat, Western India

Yoko Ueba

Chapter 13

Patchworking in Tradition: The Trends of Fashionable Carpets from Turkey

Ulara Tamura

Chapter 14

What Do Handwoven Textiles Do? Constellation of Things and the Primal History among Non-Weaving People in Flores, Eastern Indonesia

Eriko Aoki



Index

About the Contributors

Product details

Published 28 Jan 2020
Format Hardback
Edition 1st
Extent 316
ISBN 9781498586498
Imprint Lexington Books
Illustrations 27 b/w photos; 3 tables;
Dimensions 233 x 160 mm
Publisher Bloomsbury Publishing

About the contributors

Anthology Editor

Ayami Nakatani

Contributor

Monisha Ahmed

Contributor

Eriko Aoki

Contributor

Miwa Kanetani

Contributor

Aarti Kawlra

Contributor

Sachiko Kubota

Contributor

Chie Miyawaki

Contributor

Okpyo Moon

Contributor

Ayami Nakatani

Contributor

Susan Rodgers

Contributor

Seiko Sugimoto

Contributor

Ulara Tamura

Contributor

Yoko Ueba

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