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Darjeeling's tea bushes stretch across a picturesque landscape steeped in religious, sacred and mythical history. Planted at high elevation in the heart of the Eastern Himalayas, in an area of northern India bound by Nepal to the west, Bhutan to the east and Sikkim to the north, the rows of brilliant green, waist-high shrubs that coat the steep slopes and valleys around this Victorian 'hill town' produce only a fraction of the world's tea, and less than one per cent of India's total. Yet the tea from this limited crop, with its characteristic bright, amber-coloured brew and muscatel flavours – delicate and flowery, with hints of apricots and peaches – is generally considered the best on the globe.
This is the story of how Darjeeling developed its prodigious tea industry under Imperial British rule and eventually came to produce some of the highest-quality leaves in the world. It is a fascinating portrait of the region from the days of the Raj to that of the 'voodoo farmers' of the present day, who get world-record prices for their fine teas, all set against the backdrop of the looming Himalayas and drenching monsoons. It is a story rich in intrigue and empire, full of adventurers and unlikely successes in culture and religion, ecology and terroir, and one that began with one of the most audacious acts of corporate smuggling in history.
It is also the tale of how the industry had spiralled into decline by the end of the twentieth century, and how this paradisiacal spot in the high Himalayas seethes with union unrest and a violent struggle for independent statehood. It is on the front line against the devastating effects of climate change and decades of harmful farming practices, a war that is being fought in some tea gardens – and, astonishingly, won – using radical methods.
Published | 15 Sep 2015 |
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Format | Hardback |
Edition | 1st |
Extent | 304 |
ISBN | 9789384898427 |
Imprint | Bloomsbury Paperbacks |
Illustrations | 16-page color insert. |
Dimensions | 234 x 153 mm |
Publisher | Bloomsbury Publishing |
It is not just about Darjeeling, though; and not even just about tea. It is also about the history of colonial and post-colonial India … As for the rest, it is a book teeming with characters and interest. Koehler, described as “writer, photographer, traveller and cook”, has the polymath's curiosity for everything, as well as the writer's ability to listen to and retell a good story … A richly digressive book
Nicholas Lezard, Guardian
We live in an age when it has become important to celebrate those few really fine things that are made with care and to document their struggle to survive – never done better than in Jeff Koehler's passionate study of Darjeeling tea. It makes you want to sip a perfectly brewed cup and so makes your life better
Mark Kurlansky, author of Cod, Salt and The Big Oyster
This exhaustively researched and eminently readable book will delight foodies, history buffs and armchair travelers alike
Seattle Times
The author's friendly writing style and obvious passion for the subject makes the book an entertaining read
Library Journal
When he writes about the tea itself ... how the pickers skillfully pluck the leaves and toss them into a basket, how the tea smells as it's being dried, the daily taste tests at each estate - his prose is both sensory and balletic
Chicago Tribune
Koehler has the knack of a good storyteller who has found a great story to tell
South China Morning Post
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