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Description
Fashion is widely recognised as a site for social acceptance and rejection, and as a signifier of personal identity. What happens when people stray from 'appropriate' dress codes or associate garments with 'respectability' or deviance? How does fashion relate to criminality?
In this interdisciplinary volume, leading scholars propose new ways of seeing everyday dress and the body in public space. Garments and individual or group wearers are used as case studies to explore the codification of clothing as criminal – hoodies, trench-coats, Norwegian Lustkoffe sweaters, low-slung trousers and Hip Hop styling are all untangled as garments with criminal significance. The book questions the point at which morality as a form of social control meets criminality, and suggests ways to renegotiate established dress codes and terms such as 'suitability' and 'glamour' through the study of what people wear in response to notions of criminality.
Table of Contents
Acknowledgements
Introduction
Joanne Turney
1 White Lies and the Tailoring of Evil
Jonathan Faiers
2 The Horror of the Hoodie: Clothing the Criminal
Joanne Turney
3 The Criminalisation of the Saggy Pant
Holly Price Alford
4 Mug Shot/Head Shot: Danger, Beauty and the Temporal Politics of Booking Photography
Stephanie Sadre-Orafai
5 Kogyaru and Pleasure of Dressing as a 'Delinquent Girl' (furyo shojo)
Sharon Kinsella
6 There's no B'ness like 'Ho' B'ness (50 Cent, PIMP): Deconstructing the Hip-Hop 'Ho'
Alex Franklin
7 Fear and Clothing in Adidas: Branded Sportswear and Fashioning the 'Handy Dandy'
Joanne Turney
8 Crime and Fashion in the 1950s and 1960s in Socialist Hungary
Katalin Medvedev
9 Queer Materiality: An Empirical Study of Gender Subversive Styles in Contemporary Stockholm
Philip Warkander
10 Material Evidence: Sexual Assault, Provocative Clothing and Fashion
Joanne Turney
11 Skulls and Crossbones: America's Confederacy of Pirates
Anne Cecil
12 A 'Louse' in Court: Norwegian Knitted Sweaters on Big-Time Criminals
Ingun Grimstad Klepp
13 Out of the Trenches and into Vogue: Un-belting the Trench Coat
Marilyn Cohen
14 From Revolting to Revolting: Masculinity, the Politics and Body Politic of the Tracksuit
Joanne Turney
Contributors
Index
Product details
Published | 25 Jul 2019 |
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Format | Ebook (PDF) |
Edition | 1st |
Extent | 256 |
ISBN | 9781788315630 |
Imprint | Bloomsbury Visual Arts |
Illustrations | 27 b&w illus |
Publisher | Bloomsbury Publishing |
About the contributors
Reviews
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The collection of essays in this book offers an insightful look at the unspoken sartorial coding featured in society ... While there is other published research on symbolism of clothing and limitations imposed, such as sumptuary laws, this book is unique in that it demonstrates sociocultural and political consequences of clothing in contemporary society.
The Journal of Dress History
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[Fashion Crimes] offers intriguing and well-considered takes on dress and criminality, discussions that scholars in the field should find worthwhile. Summing Up: Recommended.
CHOICE
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This original and ground-breaking book skilfully unpicks the links between crime and clothing. It is a must-read for anyone interested in how the state legislates what we wear, how the media “sensationalises” specific styles, and how wearers deemed deviant express themselves through clothing.
Alison Matthews David, Ryerson University, Canada
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Capturing the scandalous ways sartorial practices connect to criminal activities, Fashion Crimes is a thought-provoking exploration of socio-cultural and political meanings entangled with dress and deviancy.
Therèsa M. Winge, Michigan State University, USA
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In this truly unique volume, diverse essays challenge established methodologies of dress studies and move the subject area forward. This is an original contribution to a fascinating area of study.
Emmanuelle Dirix, Antwerp Fashion Academy, Belgium
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Well-structured ... interesting for anyone using clothes as an expression of ideals in a world that becomes increasingly tokenistic and tribal and where the way you look has a tangible impact on societal behaviours and become a means of performative communication.
Scene Point Blank

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