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Masked

Anonymity, Empowerment, and Identity in Fashion and Popular Culture

Masked cover

Masked

Anonymity, Empowerment, and Identity in Fashion and Popular Culture

Description

What is a mask? A disguise or a means of protection? Laini Burton's comprehensive examination of masking in Western culture explores the mask as an enduring tool of personal, political and social transformation.

Beginning in the Middle Ages, Burton explores how key examples such as Venetian carnival and English masquerade sit at a historical crossroads between medieval masking traditions and early modern cultural shifts. These historical precedents reveal how politics, social order, performance, and identity continue to drive masking practices today. Turning to contemporary culture, Burton evaluates the mask's varied uses in club culture, haute couture, celebrity performances, masked protests, social media, and digital innovations including deepfakes. Through these contexts, Burton demonstrates how masks enable anonymity, reinvention, catharsis, celebration, and unity. Chapters consider how masks function as material objects and symbolic devices, challenging fundamental assumptions about authenticity, surface and depth, visibility and recognition.

Masked: Anonymity, Empowerment, and Identity in Fashion and Popular Culture urges us to reconsider how identities are constructed, maintained, and performed, identifying the mask as a paradoxical mechanism that not only obscures identity, but actively constructs, mediates, and transforms it.

Table of Contents

List of Figures

List of Plates

Acknowledgements

Introduction

1. The Historical Mask
The Carnival Mask: A Precursor
The Mask of Angst
The Mask at Masquerade

2. Late Twentieth-Century Experiments
Leigh Bowery – Vanguard Masker
The Couture Mask: Martin Margiela and Walter Van Beirendonck

3. The Spectacle of Anonymity
Björk
Ye (Kanye) West
Sia
Lady Gaga

4. Future Proofing the Face
Facial Recognition Technologies: Your Face Does Not Belong to You
The Mask of Justice: #BLACKLIVESMATTER and Masked Protest
The Mask as a Health Measure and Climate Sensing Tool

5. The Digital Mask
Filters and Fakery
Deepfakes

Conclusion

Notes

Selected Bibliography

Index

Product details

Published 11 Jun 2026
Format Ebook (PDF)
Edition 1st
Extent 224
ISBN 9781350236189
Imprint Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Illustrations 51 colour illus
Publisher Bloomsbury Publishing

About the contributors

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Environment: Staging